Bunny Adoption (6-12 weeks old)

Thinking about adopting a bunny to your home? Rabbits make the perfect pet. Rabbits make the great first pet for children that need to learn responsibilities. Rabbits can live indoors, outdoors, or both. Read here on set-up for what works best for your home.

Living space: There are several options you can choose on how you want to raise your pet. Rabbits need a MINIMUM three times the space of their body size. Those cute cages you see in the stores are not the best homes for our breed of rabbits. Our rabbits full grown can range from 7-10 lbs. They need to be able to completely stretch out when they lay down and sit up. We will not accept adopting our bunnies to homes that cannot provide a minimum of 3' x 2' x 1-1/2' space. If in a cage, spacing of the wire is best as 1/2" x 1/2". Too large, and they may get their foot stuck or have safety concerns. Too small, and their droppings may not fall through and become littered quickly. If a caged bottom, ensure that there is a 1-1/2' x 1-1/2' flat space for them to rest their feet. This is known as their sitting pad. Their pad can be made of wood, rubber, plastic: but keep in mind rabbits chew. So something more durable is best. Some families have even used a slat of tile.

If you choose to give your rabbit an indoor room or open space: ensure that all wires/cables are not accessible as they will chew. Rabbits natural instinct is to dig (burrow). Some families choose to set up large pens with tops. There are also multi-levelled habitats that work well in smaller spaced homes. It is best to ensure that you have a wide solid base under the area to clean out weekly. Another way is a litter box. Rabbits are very intelligent and train well. If you put a litter box with wood shavings under their feed area and/or hay; in a corner, they will quickly use that space to go. Rabbits like to have their backs in a corner to urinate and defecate most times while eating.

If choosing outdoors, rabbits that have access to fresh grass have a high chance of getting worms and parasites, as well as fleas, ticks and more. If providing treatment every six months, you can continue this plan. Our best advice is to dedicate a spot where there is wire on all sides as a large space. As predators will attempt to take them from you. The rabbit(s) will need protection from the sun/wind/rain/snow, and all other outdoor elements. You will need to provide a 10' radius around your outdoor pet as the RHDV (Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus) can be carried from other wild rabbits and animals to your pet. Male rabbits especially are known to spray (by kicking as they urinate). Hence the radius being 10' plus. Ensure that you have a heated bowl for water if providing an outdoor space during the colder season.

~You will be asked to provide photos of your set up before bringing your newest friend home.~

Food: Feeding a rabbit(s) is low in cost. Pellets are best purchased as 50 lb bags and can come in grain/veggie/hay condensed mix. Rabbits NEED hay to chew for digestion. Providing it in their condensed feed alone will not be enough but can lower the supply needed if giving both. Rabbits LOVE veggies and fruit. Ensure they get a small treat daily. We give our salad ends as a way for them to love us more :) Internet search dangerous foods for rabbits if unsure.

Pellets, Hay (alfalfa) and veggies (lettuce, cabbage, carrots, etc) are usually a hit! Not every rabbit loves everything, so try small samples before committing to anything specifically.

Drinking: There are several methods you can provide water for your rabbit(s). The most common is the licking spout. We suggest finding two so that they never run out. A bowl works for some rabbits, but most times they flip it. There are also screw on bowl types that go onto bottles making them gravity waterers. They work great as well as they allow the rabbit to drink larger needed portions. The licking type and gravity requires to be hung off of caging from the outside.

Health: We suggest contacting your local vet. Most vets gladly take in rabbit(s) to their care for common health checks, but few of them will provide surgical service (spay/neuter). Do your research and ask. We suggest an annual check. If you do not plan to breed your rabbit, we highly suggest having them fixed. This is for their health and behaviour.

Nail trimming: (Please note) Rabbits have sharp nails that need trimming. Handling rabbits needs time and patience as their natural instinct is to kick with their feet to get away. Wearing gloves and long thick clothing is the safest until you and your pet are used to each other. Every rabbit is different. We check our rabbits nails every three months. Some need trimming every six months while some can go a year without needing a trim. Cat/dog trimmers work best for this. Rabbits nails are comparable to cats. There are several videos how to do so and it completely weighs on your comfort. This is also something that you can ask your vet or pet groomer to do for you.

Dental care: We check our rabbits every three months for dental. A large impact is the food you provide, ensuring they have hay and feed as their daily exposure. Rabbits give a lot in their body language, so if you see something is off; do a gentle check. Please be cautious as they may bite. My trick is gentle hands and putting them on their backs on your lap. This doesn't work for all rabbits but most. Calm voices and nice petting works.

Climate control: Rabbits are built for all seasons. They spread out in the summer months and curl up (burrow) in the winter. Providing a fan in one area for them to go to is nice, along with an enclosed space with a 6" x 6" hole for the winter is great. DO NOT bath your rabbit. Use a damp rag only if needed. If rabbits get water in their ears, they can break a blood vessel from shaking the water out of their ears causing immediate medical attention. Rabbits are similar to cats and bathe themselves very well.

Adoption for more than one rabbit: We do not sell multiples of the opposite sex as our rabbits all share the same buck (dad). We can sell two (or more) females or two (or more) males. As hormones will develop with time, natural instincts will set in and opposite sex rabbits will be dangerous to each other. In the wild, the female can get away, but the male will do harm on the female. Even while breeding we do not keep our rabbits together longer than five minutes: even as sweet as our buck is to us. If housing more than one rabbit together, they will need to be fixed as early as 4-6 months (most vets prefer 6 months). Book your consult. If you don’t believe us; search rabbits fighting on the internet. The only other way of doing this is keeping them separate from each other at all times.

Other animals: PLEASE keep other animals away from your rabbit(s). They are a natural prey animal and are not built to attack, but to self defend. Most times they will loose. If you have other animals that you want to warm up to your newest addition, we suggest a slow progression. Try several weeks of fence introduction where both are safe, but cannot contact each other. If you find it is going well, hold the animal that is more likely to be scared and pounce and talk calm and gentle with positive reinforcement. do not leave them alone. This takes several years for most homes and a lot of attention and training.

We hope that this covers a good basis for you to make a conscious decision on welcoming a new rabbit(s) to your home. Contact us for any questions! We are more than happy to text photos of examples if not posted on here.

Please note: We are not experts. Our advice is solely on experience. We suggest if you adopt or are interested in adopting: to join social media groups on the animal you are interested in. Search key words like: Bunny, Rabbit, Pet rabbit, etc.